Thursday, 31 Jul
My time in Wales was over. I checked out of my accommodation and walked to Cardiff Central Station to catch a train, destination Poole. The train journey was fairly uneventful, I watched some Netflix and relaxed. I had a quick change of train at Southampton, which had a short delay, and was soon on my way again. The train rolled into Poole Station, where Sandra and Stuart were waiting on the platform. Family! After so many days of solo travelling it was such a joy to be among familiar faces. It had been a decade since I’d seen them, yet it felt like yesterday. I did bring the rain though — there had been a significant downpour before I arrived. They drove me to their place in Organford, where I met Oliver the schnauzer and Felix the cat. I settled into the cosy guest bedroom and then, it was beer o’clock. To say I was spoiled with my stay would be an understatement. There were beers, snacks and more food than I’d been accustomed to while travelling, and very quickly I felt right at home. Ollie and I became fast friends, and before long we all jumped in the car and headed out around the harbour to Sandbanks, the eastern peninsula at the mouth of Poole Harbour. We stopped off for a drink at the Jazz Cafe, a very cool venue where I could imagine some great jazz jams. Another burst of rain passed over, but once the skies cleared a little we took a nice walk along the beach with Ollie. Stuart had a wealth of knowledge about the area and its history, which was always fascinating to hear. Sandbanks is the most expensive coastal location in Britain, with homes owned by footballers and other wealthy sorts. We drove back around the harbour to central Poole for a walk along the harbourside, where a festival was in full swing with loads of people and music. Stuart also gave me the low-down on the best pubs. Back in Organford, Sandra cooked a delicious dinner, and we chatted until I could barely keep my eyes open.
Friday, 1 Aug
Stuart took me to the nearby town of Wareham, where we walked Ollie along the river and visited St Martin’s-on-the-Walls Anglican church. The church has been open for over 1,000 years and is home to the effigy of Lawrence of Arabia, who is buried not far away in Moreton’s cemetery. We then picked up Becki and her dog Atticus, who had travelled down from Trowbridge by train. I hadn’t seen Becki since I was last in the UK over 14 years ago, so it was wonderful to catch up. Back in Organford, we took Atty and Ollie for a quick walk before the arrival of Sam and Dave. I was excited — Sam was the one cousin I hadn’t met yet. She had just celebrated her 44th birthday, so as she and her partner Dave arrived, it became a belated birthday lunch, or ‘luncheon’ as Stuart grandly called it. Once again Sandra outdid herself in the kitchen. We crowded around the dining table and tucked in. Feeling stuffed, we decided to aid digestion with a walk in Wareham Forest, a place I could happily explore further. Despite the many trails branching in different directions, we inevitably ended up back where we started. Back home for a cuppa and a rest, we then saw Sam and Dave off on their drive back to Worthing. In the evening, Stuart drove Sandra, Becki, me, and the dogs to Studland, where we had a drink at the Bankes Arms Inn overlooking Studland Bay, with views past the mouth of Poole Harbour towards Bournemouth. We could even make out the Isle of Wight on the horizon. The pub itself was a traditional country inn, which I could imagine being very cosy in winter. After our drinks, we checked out the beach before returning home for a late dinner and bed.
Saturday, 2 Aug
I had a well-earned sleep-in after such a long and entertaining Friday. Saturday promised to be just as good, with Meg and Jack joining us along with their dog Willow. I’d seen Meg when I first arrived in London, which already felt like eons ago, but this was my first time meeting Jack. Willow was wary of me at first, but we became friends in time. She’s a rescue from Romania who’d had a tough start in life, so it’s heartening to see her so well cared for now. We took all the dogs for a quick walk before returning for another phenomenal feast. We chatted around the table, I saw some of Jack’s vocal performances, and we all relaxed, stuffed from the meal. No energy for a forest walk today. We managed one more quick dog walk before Meg and Jack had to leave, and shortly after, Becki caught her train home. I had such a wonderful time catching up with the family, and I’ll always have fond memories of us all together.
Sunday, 3 Aug
With the girls gone, it was just Sandra, Stuart and me. Our first stop was Swanage, where we visited Durlston Castle, a National Trust site. While Sandra enjoyed the art gallery and restaurant, Stuart, Ollie and I walked to Anvil Point lighthouse along the coastal cliffs. Stuart shared the history of the Tilly Whim caves, the old quarry, and local smugglers. Back at the cafe for a drink, we set off again, this time to the Scott Arms, a fantastic old pub. It started raining as we arrived, and we luckily found a table inside before the beer garden crowd came in. Over BBQ ribs, we admired the pub’s charm and then stepped outside to see the stunning view over Corfe Castle and the surrounding landscape. Sure enough, our next stop was the castle itself. We walked the perimeter before heading up to the entrance. The ruins were well maintained, with walls and gates showing centuries of wear. Information boards told of its many owners and expansions, and it must have been formidable in its prime. From Corfe, we drove to Fort Henry, two WWII concrete bunkers where Churchill, King George VI, Eisenhower and Montgomery once observed Allied firepower tests before D-Day. Standing there felt like stepping into history, standing where legends once stood. Lastly, Stuart drove us to the chain ferry from Shell Bay to Sandbanks, bringing me full circle to my first day’s tour. The “Bramble Bush Bay” ferry spans the mouth of the world’s second-largest harbour and is a great shortcut, avoiding a long round trip. Back in Organford, Sandra cooked another amazing dinner, and we ended the night watching Skyfall. I cannot express enough gratitude to Sandra and Stuart for their hospitality and for making me feel so at home. Travelling solo can be tiring, and being surrounded by family filled me with joy. As much as I shy away from being spoiled, it was such a treat to share this time and build more fond memories together.
Next stop on the trail; Trowbridge and staying with Becki.