Day 11 – Caldas de Reis to Padrón – 20km
So it did rain… but only a light sprinkle, not enough for me to bother putting my rain jacket on. I actually enjoyed the freedom of no sunscreen, sunglasses or hat throughout the dark and overcast day. The beginning of the walk was fairly easy through the streets of Caldas de Reis. Again, there were many more pilgrims on the road, and there was hardly a stretch where I was alone. The trail mostly led through urban streets, except for a lovely stretch through a dense green forest valley. This was only spoiled by a large group of teens with a portable speaker blaring pop music. They were so loud and blocked the path that I had to tap them on the shoulder just to get past. Not the way I’d enjoy the walk—carting a speaker and yelling over it the whole way—but kids do a lot of things I don’t understand these days.
Anyway, I finally put some distance between the rowdy bunch and myself and hoofed it all the way to Padrón. It seemed to be a mostly industrial town. I had to divert off the trail early in order to get to the hotel, which was a reasonable distance out of the way. The hotel felt like a step back in time—stairs with rugs running down them, a lift that bounced when you stepped inside, and dated décor in the rooms—but it was a pleasant enough stay.
I did manage a short trip into town to grab dinner. I found an interesting and entertaining shop with long display fridges full of premade meals. You pick what looks good and the staff microwave it for you. It seemed a bit silly, but the chicken croquetas and potato salad I had were amazing—and only €5 for the lot! Enough cash left over for a few cheeky cervezas. A rather easy-going day all up. I went to bed early-ish as tomorrow would be the final stretch before my Camino experience was complete.
Day 12 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela – 25km
The hotel was right next to Padrón train station, so my alarm for the morning was the toot of the 7am train heading to Santiago. I had a very nice breakfast and was even able to make my last cheeky ham and cheese roll for the road. The day’s hike would mostly go through small towns linking all the way to Santiago. There were short segments of trail and forest, but it was mostly streets and walking alongside highways. It was going to be a longer trek today—25km—so I kept an average pace. No need to motor along like some of the previous days.
The discussion amongst the majority of pilgrims was how it was almost all over, and the emotions of the whole journey were rising up—making many feel sad that it would soon be finished. Then there were the others who felt the opposite, expressing how they couldn’t wait for the pain to end and to rest their feet. My emotions teetered somewhere in the middle.
I did meet the Aussie mum and daughter duo from Brisbane that I encountered in Baiona. I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned them, but I’ve bumped into them a few times over the past few days. It was only today, with my less rapid pace, that I walked with them for a bit. Nerida, the daughter, was my age. She was travelling with her mum Katherine before her big 4–0. She’d be meeting her husband, kids and other family after the Camino and heading to Greece for a few weeks. Sounds like an amazing way to wind down after a week of trekking—swimming in the Mediterranean on some scorching hot days. Very different to how I’ll be winding down.
I enjoyed a good walk and chat before Katherine needed a rest and I continued ahead. I hadn’t realised how far we’d walked while talking, but the next marker said only 10km to go! Great way to pass the time.
The streets of Santiago finally began, and although the trail markers were sparse, it was easy to see other pilgrims flocking in the direction of the Cathedral. Step by step, crossing by crossing, I finally walked up an alley that opened wide into a sprawling square—and there I was. The end. Twelve days. 267km. Sweat, blisters, soreness… beautiful beaches, forests, towns… and done.
I sat down for a good hour soaking in the completion under the watch of the Cathedral, which has witnessed the same from millions of others who’ve made the walk before me. A great sense of achievement washed over me, thinking that just two years ago I’d struggled riding my bike to work. Any strenuous exercise would totally wipe me out. And now I’m here, awake, and feeling like I could keep going for another 12 days. But sadly, no.
I got to my feet and looked up where my hotel was—thankfully only 250m away—and made my way to check in. My bag was already in my room; the luggage transfer had been seamless the whole journey, for which I was very grateful. I freshened up and made my way out for a well-deserved beer. I’m currently writing this with beer in hand and some tapas incoming. One more day in Santiago and then I’m off to Scotland for a different kind of adventure!
Cheers, pilgrims! Cheers, Camino! Cheers, Spain!
Fun things I recall from my Camino:
- At the start I’d get confused with my greetings, and instead of saying Bom Dia (Good day), I would greet some people with Bom Dio (Good God). I’d love to know what they thought as I passed, looked them in the eye and said “Good God!” Thankfully this only happened during the first couple of days.
- In the same manner, I struggled to quickly respond with Bom Caminho when someone said it to me. Some responses I remember blurting out include “Bon Calmito”, “Bom Carlito”, “Bom Carmeno”, and “Bom Carribo”.
- Whilst walking, the tempo of my pace would bring songs into my head. My general walking rhythm was around 120bpm, which brought tunes like Count Basie’s April in Paris, Moten Swing, Queen Bee, or the Phil Collins Big Band version of Invisible Touch. These songs would often pop into my head as I walked.
- I would frequently scare people as I passed them by saying Bom Caminho. They’d be deep in their own zone and jump when I greeted them.
- The farting lady from Wisconsin. I encountered her a few times up until Vigo. Not always farting, but it still makes me chuckle.
- When people found out I wasn’t using maps or GPS on my phone and was wholly relying on trail markers and instinct to get from A to B. Honestly, it’s a pretty well-marked trail.
- I had two sets of hiking clothes. So at the end of each day I’d wash the worn set in the hotel bathroom, hang it to dry, and pack it the next morning while wearing the previously cleaned one.
- Una cerveza, por favor. Una grande. Gracias.
