Leaving Régua
We left Régua after a coffee and pastel de nata. It was a little rainy as we headed off to Lisbon, but it cleared up on the drive.
Drive to Tomar
After reading up on some history and searching Google Maps, we decided to stop at the town of Tomar, home to an old Knights Templar stronghold and convent.
Convento de Cristo
This stunning castle and convent was located on a hill right above the town. Jake and I climbed the parapets and explored the gardens and ruins of the old stronghold.
Here’s a history snippet:
The Convento de Cristo (Convent of Christ) in Tomar, Portugal, has a rich and layered history that dates back to the 12th century. It was originally founded in 1160 by the Knights Templar under the leadership of Gualdim Pais, a grand master of the order in Portugal. Strategically located on a hill overlooking the Nabão River, the convent was part fortress, part monastic center, serving both religious and military purposes during the Christian Reconquista against the Moors. When the Templars were disbanded in the early 14th century by papal decree, the Portuguese branch was reconstituted as the Order of Christ, which inherited the property and continued to play a significant role in Portuguese affairs, particularly during the Age of Discoveries.
Over the centuries, the convent underwent significant architectural expansions and transformations. Its most iconic feature is the Charola, a 12-sided Romanesque church inspired by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, reflecting the Templars’ crusader roots. Later additions under King Manuel I in the 16th century introduced the ornate Manueline style, characterized by maritime motifs and elaborate stonework, most notably seen in the famous Chapter House window. The convent continued to serve religious and royal purposes until the 19th century, and today it stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offering a unique blend of Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture that reflects Portugal’s diverse cultural history.
We continued on to Zibreira—a random turn-off—for a nice lunch at Mestre Petisqueiro.
Lisboa
We arrived at our Airbnb just in time to drop our things and head off for another food tour Jake had organised. We took a short stroll (uphill, of course) to meet our private guide, the amazing Sónia: https://www.lovelylisbonner.com . She led us through the streets of Lisbon, sharing great history, tips, and stories of the area.
We stopped first at a very busy O Trevo for a bifana and beer. Bifanas are traditional pork rolls, and this one was bloody awesome—definitely a favourite. We quickly moved further up the street for a delightful pastel de nata at Manteigaria, where you can watch them make the delicious treats right in front of your eyes.
The next part of the trip brought us to the oldest bookstore in the world, Livraria Bertrand – Chiado, where I bought a small book that they stamped to prove you’ve purchased from the oldest bookshop… kind of cool. I asked for a stamp in both English and Portuguese.
We strolled down past the famous Elevador de Santa Justa and to a street vendor who deals in Ginjinha, a cherry liqueur served in a chocolate cup. Winning all round!
Next, Sónia led us to a hidden tavern—or taberna—where we sampled some meats and cheeses, and a chorizo that Sónia cooked to perfection on an alcohol-fueled clay grill called an Assador de Chouriço. Paired with a beer, Jake and I polished everything off, which unfortunately brought us toward the end of the tour.
Lastly, our wonderful guide led us up some stairs to another lookout that showed the span of our tour. From here, we farewelled Sónia—LEGEND! A quick stop at the supermarket for supplies, and we headed back to the apartment to quickly plan the next day.
Sintra.
