Day 3 – Esposende to Viana do Castelo – 24km
Well of course the day went a lot better without the added weight of the backpack. My mild irritation that the challenge was over so quickly vanished fast, though. The walk began quite easy, but soon enough it was up and down hills, and my right leg certainly felt it.
…Had I persevered with the backpack, I would most definitely have done damage. It was another scorcher, and although I was well covered and sun-smart, nothing could stop the oppressive heat and the absence of a breeze.
The hills were great going up. My legs felt good, the weight was off the blisters, and I could just lean in and climb. Going down was another story. Depending on how steep it was, I’d have to move at a snail’s pace to avoid the jarring in my right leg or risk aggravating the blisters.
It wasn’t all hard going — I met some really nice people on the trail. Firstly, I saved an American lady from Wisconsin from missing a trail marker and wandering off somewhere random. I soon realised this would probably happen at some stage anyway, as she was the most odd person — completely in her own little world.
We did have a good chat, and I kept her company for about an hour, steering her in the right direction a few times. She was doing the trail as her own personal spiritual challenge while waiting for her daughter’s graduation at some uni in the UK. She had some interesting mannerisms… She was outraged at a group of elderly folk skinny-dipping in a river to escape the heat, yet would casually fart in front of me and just pardon herself. It was hilarious, but I felt she’d be offended if I laughed.
We parted ways when she needed to stop in a village to make a “phone call”, and I motored on ahead. A couple of hours later, I met two young German girls who were also doing the pilgrimage. They had started in Faro, way down south — an epic journey already — and were taking it simple and easy, a day at a time, going as far as they felt like. A perfect way to do it if you’ve got the time… and parents funding it.
We had a good chat. They sympathised with me being taken out by a toddler, saying something similar had almost happened to them down south.
Again, I motored on. I still had plenty of energy without the backpack. No one passed me and all was going great guns — until I arrived at Viana do Castelo. Just 800 metres from the hotel I felt a burning on my right heel — sure enough, a blister had gone. So my last few minutes to the hotel involved a sort of hop/skip/limp.
I made it, very glad the staff had dropped my bag at the door of my room. I headed straight in to treat my foot. Fortunately, I had a cheeky leftover ham and cheese bread roll in my bag which I had for dinner, and once everything was sorted, I zonked out.
Day 4 – Viana do Castelo to Vila Praia de Âncora – 19km
I had an amazing breakfast at the hotel — the first one that wasn’t buffet-style. Fresh fruit, good coffee and, of course, some ham, cheese and bread rolls.
I packed, taped myself up, checked out, and headed off for what would be the shortest leg so far. I was shocked to find a thick fog covering the area when I left, and it didn’t lift until after midday. Even though it was only 23 degrees, without a breeze I was still sweating buckets. I also missed seeing a huge cathedral, Sanctuary of the Sacret Heart of Jesus, which overlooks the town from up on a hill. Bloody fog.
The trail wound through streets of various connected towns before heading into hilly terrain. My feet were definitely feeling the past few days of punishment.
It was awesome to meet Sam — another Aussie! She’s a Fiery from near Cairns. We trotted along talking about our government jobs, State of Origin and all that. She’d stop to get stamps and catch up to me when I’d stop to refill water. It made the day go by much quicker.
Arriving in Âncora was a huge relief. My feet were feeling it, and I had a hunch I needed to do some redressing. I happily found my backpack waiting for me in the foyer of the hotel, and went to a very nice room right near the pool.
After a quick redress of the feet and a short stop at the pharmacy to replenish supplies, I found I still had the energy to go for a short stroll along the beachfront and grab some dinner.
Tomorrow is another short trip — and includes a ferry ride, which will take the trek from Portugal to Spain!
Cheers Portugal, you’ve been awesome! Sustain the pastéis de nata, codfish cakes, Super Bock beer and sunshine. Keep your ratty kids though :p
Next stop: A Guarda, Spain!
