Monday, 4 Aug
My time in Poole came to an end… I arrived in the rain, and it seems I will leave with it too. I was bound for Trowbridge, where I’d be staying with Becki for a couple of days. After saying farewell to Ollie and Felix, I carted my backpack to the car, where Stuart drove us to Poole Station. There was time for a quick coffee before I said my final goodbyes to Sandra and Stuart and boarded the train.
I arrived in Trowbridge a little delayed, but Becki and Atticus were ready and waiting on the platform. She drove me to her house, where we dropped my gear before heading out to see the Bratton White Horse. This was also the site of Bratton Camp hillfort and a soldier’s memorial. We took a stroll around the hilltop with Atty and enjoyed a pocket beer before heading back to Becki’s, where she made a delicious dinner. We kept the James Bond theme going by watching Spectre.
Tuesday, 5 Aug
The plan for the day was to get to Avebury to visit the standing stones. Becki drove me to Devizes, where she works, and from where I could catch a bus out to Avebury. On the way, we stopped at the Caen Hill Locks — a series of 29 locks along the canal. It’s a peaceful place, green and quiet, and apparently takes half a day to travel through by boat.
In Devizes I saw where Becki works before she walked me down to the bus stop. Due to road closures I had to catch the bus from another location, but it all worked out. I’d chosen Avebury over Stonehenge, and I’m glad I did. While Stonehenge is an amazing wonder, it’s pricier to visit and you can’t get too close. The Avebury Stone Circle is not only older but allows you to walk among the stones, with other sites within walking distance.
The countryside made for a beautiful stroll. I passed Silbury Hill, the largest prehistoric man-made mound in Europe, and visited West Kennet Long Barrow, an ancient burial tomb excavated enough to enter — though much of it had collapsed. Back in Avebury, I stopped at the Red Lion pub, which sits directly in the center of the stone circle. It felt almost mandatory to have a pint there.
I caught the bus back to Devizes and waited at The Black Swan Inn for Becki to finish work. She and Atticus joined me for a drink before we stopped at Great Chalfield Manor, where Becki is acquainted with the Lord and Lady. We walked Atty around the lovely grounds, then returned home, where I had the opportunity to cook fajitas for dinner and we enjoyed a relaxed evening over a few drinks.
Wednesday, 6 Aug
The day’s plan was to explore Bath. I’d already booked a tour of the Roman Baths, with a few other spots on my list. I caught the train to Bath Spa and arrived early. The town was packed, and the Baths were no less busy.
It was fascinating to learn how the Romans discovered the hot springs — already a holy site for the local Celts — and merged their goddess Sulis with Minerva. They built the baths around 70 AD. I spent about two hours exploring, seeing the Sacred Pool and the main bath. I even tasted the natural spring water… which just tasted like warm water. Still (pun intended), I was glad I’d visited.
On Becki’s recommendation, I had lunch at The Botanist, a restaurant with an impressive 360° bar with a huge tree growing through the middle. From there I headed to The Circus, a ring of Georgian townhouses curving around a grassy roundabout, famous from many period dramas. I then made my way to Pulteney Bridge, lined with shops and almost blending into the street above the river.
With time to spare, I embarked on a mini pub crawl — The Old Green Tree, The Saracens Head, The George, and The Raven — before taking a train to Bradford-on-Avon to meet Becki for dinner. I arrived early enough to add The Three Horseshoes and Timbrell’s Yard to the crawl. By the time Becki arrived, I was a little sauced, but we still enjoyed a fantastic tapas dinner at Pablo’s Bistro. We took a short walk around the old town, which was beautiful with its riverside buildings, before driving home for a much-needed sleep.
Thursday, 7 Aug
Before my journey back to Ireland (flying out of Bristol Airport) I caught up with my friend Andreea, who kindly let me crash at hers again. I left Becki’s in the afternoon and made my way to her place, conveniently next to a train station. She was busy with work and planning a friend’s birthday weekend, but we still managed to go out for a drink before picking up takeaway for dinner. She works from home, so I entertained myself with my blog entries while she worked.
Friday, 8 Aug
Leaving Andreea to her busy schedule, I took the chance to explore Bristol. I covered a fair distance, seeing much of the river and harbourside. I passed the SS Great Britain, visited Bristol Cathedral, and climbed Cabot Tower on Brandon Hill. The colourful terraced houses along the hillsides overlooking the water were a highlight, as was the view from Cabot Tower… free to climb too!
In the late afternoon I returned to Andreea’s, and she invited me out with her friends to celebrate the end of the week. I met her workmates, and we had a great night out at some local bars. It wasn’t until I found myself chatting to a bloke with an accent so thick I couldn’t understand a word that I decided to call it a night. Andreea was ready to head back too, and I promptly fell asleep on her couch.
Next up; I fly back to Ireland to continue my tour of the Wild Atlantic Way… with a stop in Portmagee to fulfil a personal promise. The Skellig Michael landing tours are open again!
